Linen is one of the most loved natural fabrics in the sewing and slow-fashion world. It’s breathable, durable, timeless, and gets better with age.
So one question we’re often asked is:
“Why is linen usually imported? Isn’t it possible to make it in the USA?”
The short answer: linen comes from flax—and flax production is deeply tied to geography, climate, and centuries-old infrastructure that no longer exists in the U.S.
Here’s the full story.
Linen starts with flax—and flax is picky 🌿
Linen is made from the fibers of the flax plant, which thrives in: Cool, damp climates, Long daylight hours and Consistent spring rainfall
These conditions are naturally found in parts of Western Europe, especially France, Belgium, and the Netherlands.
While flax can be grown in the U.S., it’s typically grown for seed and oil, not for long textile fibers. Apparel-grade flax requires very specific growing conditions to produce fibers long enough, strong enough, and smooth enough to become high-quality linen fabric.
Flax processing is highly specialized (and mostly gone in the U.S.)
Turning flax into linen is far more complex than cotton. The process includes:
Retting (breaking down the plant to release fibers
- Scutching and hackling (cleaning and combing fibers)
- Wet spinning
- Weaving and finishing
Decades ago, most U.S. flax processing facilities shut down due to:
- High labor costs
- Environmental regulations around retting
- The rise of cheaper cotton and synthetic fibers
European regions never dismantled their linen infrastructure, which means today they still have a complete, efficient supply chain—from field to finished fabric.
Our linen is sourced from a carefully selected textile partner in China that holds OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 certification.
What this certification means
OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 is a globally recognized, independent testing system that verifies textiles are free from harmful substances and safe for human use.
The certification shown here applies to:
- Woven and knitted fabrics
- Natural fibers including linen and cotton
- Reactive and pigment-printed textiles
- Product Class II (approved for direct contact with skin)
This means the fabric has been tested for substances such as:
- Harmful dyes
- Heavy metals
- Formaldehyde
- Pesticides
- Other regulated chemicals
Only materials that meet strict international safety limits are approved.
Why our linen is sourced internationally
Linen is made from flax, and today the global linen supply chain is highly specialized and centralized. While we prioritize U.S.-milled production whenever possible (especially for knits), high-quality linen production at scale currently exists outside the U.S.
Our focus is not just where fabric is made — but how it is made and how it performs:
- Safety for skin and everyday wear
- Responsible chemical management
- Longevity and durability
- Transparency in sourcing
OEKO-TEX® certification allows us to confidently verify these standards regardless of country of origin.
Responsible sourcing matters to us
We intentionally work with mills that:
- Participate in third-party testing
- Maintain consistent quality control
- Meet internationally accepted safety standards
This certification is issued and monitored by an independent Swiss-based organization and is re-evaluated annually, ensuring ongoing compliance — not a one-time claim.
Our approach: transparency + quality
At Isee Fabric, we believe sustainability starts with honesty.
- Our knits are primarily USA-milled because that supply chain still exists here
- Our linen wovens are imported because there is no comparable domestic alternative
- We choose suppliers known for responsible production, durability, and longevity